9:30am. The sun was out this morning and making everything sparkle. The air was brisk and invigorating as we got started. But that was the first hour. After that, the air got hotter and the scenery got kinda ugly. We turned inland toward Santiago and I’m not saying we were riding on highways exactly, but we were kind of riding on highways. (Big shoulders, for those who worry). Carreteras. And there was a lot of pedalling up. Not super steep, but just an upward slog. The first place we stopped, for a coffee around 11am, was a bar with a few men and a bartender all talking loudly like they do. I don’t think a woman had ever stepped in there before. There seems to be a good bit of lumber industry happening here, so it was those type guys or maybe truck drivers or shipyard workers. Lots of cigarettes and big calloused hands. Gabriel and I each had a coffee served with a greasy churro which was rather grossly delicious. As I paid at the bar, Gabriel walked out and as he hit the door he all of a sudden ripped the biggest loudest fart. I mean crazy. Naturally these guys didn’t notice or could possibly care less. I, on the other hand, completely lost it and doubled over laughing in my barstool because it was just such a perfect punctuation to that place. Speaking of entrances and exits, a funny and wonderful thing I’ve noticed about Galicia is that whenever anyone enters a restaurant or bar they call out: “Buenos Dias!” no matter whether they know anyone there or not. Just a booming “Buenos Dias!” to the world. (And someone always answers back). I think I might start doing that in the U.S when I go to Starbucks.
We did ride through a few farmlands and big open fields. And every time you go through a village you hear roosters crowing. Everyone, gotta have a rooster. In one big meadow–and I can’t describe how completely out in the middle of nowhere this was–there was a giant barn with a sign: “Club Dubai Erotica Show” with the silhouette of a naked woman on it. Unfortunately it was daytime and the doors were shut, cos I really honestly would have liked to have caught that show. A couple days ago we passed a sign pointing us to “Paco’s Chica Fiesta!”, which is another one I’m extremely bummed to have missed. Back on the highway, we actually passed another couple on bikes with panniers. They were not only wearing their Safety Orange reflective vests, which I admit we wore for about 2 days of our first bike trip then ditched, but also had some other reflective material placed over their panniers. But…they weren’t wearing their helmets. Their helmets were strapped to their sides. So I mean…? Choices.
We did not stop for lunch. Around 1:00 I was so hungry (skipped my energy goo) but more than that I had to pee, so we stopped at another bar type place. They didn’t have a bathroom because it wasn’t really a bar–although there were men drinking beer and coffee at the counter like a bar–it was more of a general store I guess. Mostly they sold cigarettes of every brand imaginable, but also giant bags of charcoal, sacks of rice, some dusty Kinder bars, and other things one might need come the Apocalypse or the Zombie Invasion. I walked across the carretera to a gas station to use their ladies room where there was a sign hanging that said: A Todos Nos Gustan Los Banos Limpios and had an illustration of a woman in a business suit and a woman in ripped tights and sunglasses. Just to remind us: from the professional lady to the punk rock gal–we are all united in our preference for clean bathrooms! So true!  
I’d been looking for my totem animal all day and finally there he was in the form of a German Shepard puppy tied up outside the General Store / Bar. He wasn’t really little, he was that puppy age where he hasn’t grown into his giant ears and paws yet and he was all joy and licks and so excited simply that he exists and you exist and you’re petting him. As we left his old guy owner came out and that happy pair walked off together, which made me happy.
Ten more kilometers and we got to Santiago, dodged buses and cars through the city center, and finally toward the Catedral de Santiago, as walkers and pilgrims converged around us. I was ravenous. All I wanted to do was eat–anything, anywhere, whatever they had–but Gabriel said “First I want to take a picture in front of the Cathedral with our bikes.” Ok fine. So we bumped over cobblestones in the tourist area, dodging souvenir sellers, wandering tourists, and people eating at outdoor cafes. The walk streets were packed, and just so not bicycle friendly or appropriate. I somehow managed not to careen into anyone. We finally pedaled into the Cathedral Square and you could just feel the celebratory atmosphere. Music was playing from somewhere. Dozens of Camino walkers were arriving and throwing their arms up in victory. Backpacker kids were plopped in the middle of the plaza, eating their bread and cheese. Cyclists like us had thrown down their bikes and were lying on their backs on the stones. The giant Catedral de Santiago towered over all of us. It was truly magnificent. And right then I was so blown away– by the people who had walked for weeks to get there and had finally arrived, the pilgrims who had walked there for the last thousand years, and I guess just the undeniable awesomeness of the place–I starting crying in the middle of the square. Or maybe it was because I was so unbelievably hungry. Anyway, we took some pictures and then found our hotel, right off the square, which is a converted 17th Century Franciscan Monastery and where you can eat in the arched stone dining room exactly as the monks ate. Clearly the monks ate well because I then had the best Cream of White Asparagus soup of my life. Love monks.

Arrival time in Santiago de Compostela 2:30 pm.